November 11, 2011

Last Days

Exactly three weeks from today I will step on a plane bound for America; my year serving in South Sudan will be finished.  I have mixed feelings about this but every day I'm becoming more and more excited to go home.  To wit, some of the things I've missed about America, and a few that I'm not particularly looking forward to.


Yes, please:
- Family and friends. Duh.
- Cheese, specifically mozzarella
- Temperature-controlled buildings
- Being able to buy anything I want, any time I want (within reason, of course)
- Cheese, specifically cotswold
- Clothes washed by machine that don't constantly smell musty
- Paved roads
- Buying meat from the freezer section of the grocery, instead of a shack by the side the road where it's been sitting in the sun for 2 days
- Consistent, reliable internet service
- Cheese, specifically pecorino
- Postal / mailing / shipping services
- Fresh milk in my coffee
- Hot showers that last longer than seven minutes
- Good customer service
- Cheese, specifically brie
- A majority population that speaks my language
- Perfectly made things
- Wide-spread knowledge about hygeine and contagious diseases
- Garbage services
- Salad
- Have I mentioned dairy products?


No, thanks:
- the issue of parking, always
- always spending money, all the time, everywhere you go
- the bombardment of advertisements - buses, taxis, billboards, t.v., internet, at the grocery store, at stoplights where people wear costumes and toss signs in the air about discount mattresses
- the sexualization of everything
- traffic


See you soon...

October 19, 2011

Yes




He came on a Tuesday, one of two days during the week when a plane from Uganda flies north to drop off visitors and medicine and packages from distant continents.  I waited anxiously in a plastic chair under a small canopy of shade, watching goats walk carelessly across the dirt airstrip and listening to conversations in languages that have no meaning to me, and thinking, “what did I do to deserve this?”  This man, my man, who would spend a couple thousand dollars and hard-earned vacation time to come visit me here.  Who would choose, willingly and generously, to meet me at this place and step into my life in South Sudan. 

For a week he stayed at Harvesters.  We walked the dirt roads of the village with 35 kids and I snapped pictures of him strolling hand-in-hand with a boy on each side.   We spent long lunch breaks in the dining room chatting with Mr. Mourice and Philip, some of the staff from Kenya, about the American military and foreign policy.  He carried pieces of timber, a bag of nails, and a hammer through each of the dorms repairing broken dresser drawers and bed-posts, always followed by a gaggle of giggling toddlers.  We sat on the bench in the afternoon and surprised everyone when baby Jimmy, who has a fear of men, sat contently on his lap.  On Sunday the staff piled into the Land Cruiser and he treated all of us to lunch in town.

On one of his final nights here I went to the house where he was staying to watch a movie, to relax, and have some time together.  The credits rolled and we sat on the couch, and as I listened to his deep, familiar voice and looked into his clear, blue eyes I was overwhelmed with love for him.  Love deep and full and tinged with the fear of someday losing him.   Please God, don’t ever take him from me, let this be forever.  And then, out of a quiet moment, his confident, gentle voice, “Will you marry me?”  A question so simple and heavy and surprising that I felt like falling down.  I whispered the answer without realizing I was even speaking.  There was no thinking about what to say or how, just a reaction as natural as exhaling, as if I have known all my life to say “yes,” I was just waiting for him to ask.

September 2, 2011

Life > blogging

One morning you wake up and realize that it's been 55 days since your last blog post. Fifty five!  I mean, it only took Tom Hanks six days to travel to the moon and back and I can't create a new blog entry every few days?  Although, Mama Lilly, Pastor Pooshani, and Josephine have been away from Harvesters and their absence leaves a great void in the parenting/authority figure/over-seer department so I have been trying to stand in the gap while they're gone.  As I look back on the past eight weeks I also realize that I've simply been overcome by life, so I thank you for your grace and understanding during this prolonged absence, so without further ado...   


I just returned from a short trip to Terekeka which is always an adventure.  The journey is roughly 150 miles but it took us 13 hours to travel each way.  Since we were taking supplies like concrete, flour, beans, and lumber we had to use Harvesters' big lorry which cruised along between 10 and 12 miles per hour.  



Except for a few miles of pavement in Juba the roads are completely dirt and riddled with small bumps and large craters, which is main reason for the slow pace.

We crossed many narrow, rickety bridges and I think I annoyed Johnson, the driver, by holding my breath in suspense.  Thankfully, we always made it to the other side! 

A big sweeping rainbow made our early morning departure from Terekeka more tolerable.  


Despite the long and relatively uncomfortable ride we had no reason to complain, especially after we encountered this group at a Juba check-point.  As I sat in our safe, cushioned truck with circulating air I watched about 20 people try to get a spot on an oil drum in the back of an old, battered truck.  Can you imagine riding 100 miles like this?  Of course these people were probably just grateful that they didn't have to walk; while the people walking were grateful that they're not making the journey on only one leg behind a donkey prone to passing gas.  During my time in Sudan I'm constantly reminded of this very simple truth: it can always be worse.  


Remember these sweet babes?  Little Debbie is now three months old and could not be any better.  She smiles and coos and is the perfect companion for afternoon coffee and book breaks.  She also has had no problem gaining weight, just look at these cheeks!

Sadly, baby Vito lived only a few weeks before he died quietly in a hospital in Uganda with Nurse Brenda.  He was born with Rh disease and another infection that weren't detected until it was too late for him to fight through them.  Our time with Vito was too short but we're grateful that his little body is no longer suffering.  Vito's funeral was held during the week that my Dad was visiting and we went across town to join the family and neighbors for the ceremony.  It was an honor to share that time with the family, to stand with them in their grief, and rejoice that Vito is with his Father in heaven. 


It's customary in this part of Sudan to bury babies in the mud ledge that surrounds the family's tukkul.  

My Dad and Josephine with Vito's five siblings.

While we were at the funeral we learned that Vito's mother had died in childbirth and his father is away with the army, leaving five other children who were being sporadically cared for by neighbors and distant relatives.  They all looked a bit malnourished and dirty and the youngest had signs of ringworm.  After sharing the pictures with Mama Lilly she decided (after a request from family members) to bring the youngest three girls to Harvesters to live.

Umina, the oldest, Awate, and Lady, the youngest. 

Umina is fiercely protective and sweet to her sisters, she helps bathe, feed and dress them, and will stand up to anyone who is picking on them.  Awate is timid and lively and has easily made friends with the many other girls her age.  


Lady

Beautiful Lady has deep eyes that seem to be full of sorrow.  When she first came to Harvesters she cried whenever I went near her because she was afraid of kawajas - white people.  (I'm told that one of the urban legends here is that white people eat children.)  Almost two months later she actively finds me and will cling to my hand or skirt as I walk around the compound.  However, she has never said a single word to me and when I ask her questions like, "Ita quess?" - "Are you well?"  or "Ita derr noom?" - "Do you want to sleep?"  she simply nods her head yes or no.  One afternoon as I was grading papers I heard a faint knock on my door and opened it to find Lady with tears silently running down her cheeks.  She didn't tell me why she was crying and merely turned her head to look at a group of kids on the playground - that look told me enough - so I scooped her up and cuddled with her on my porch for the better part of an afternoon.  I clipped her fingernails that were far too long and gave her a Lifesaver that she held in her fingers and methodically licked and sang lullabies until she fell asleep on my lap.  

Of course it hasn't been all death and sadness around here.
  
We've been playing a lot of these games lately.  (Thank you MABC team for introducing me to the excitement that is Dutch Blitz.)  Sometimes I win, more often I don't.  I think God is using Scrabble to keep me humble, which will happen when you lose repeatedly to a Kenyan whose primary languages are Swahili and Dholuo and learned English as his third language.  

Some of the older girls have been helping me with sponsorship projects and one night we had a marathon cutting and gluing session in my room.  I am so grateful for any time I have with them since I can easily let the little kids monopolize my time and attention.  And of course  they have been a huge help in cutting out 400 silhouettes.  

Lately the kids have been begging me to take them wokking.  Um, you want me to take you to cook stir-fry?  Nope, they want to go walking in the village and I am more than happy to escort them.  

Don't tell anyone, but my favorite group is the six, seven, and eight-year-old girls.  They know enough English so they can tell me which path to take and if they're thirsty or tired,  but they're not too old or too cool to hold my hands or pick flowers for me to put behind my ear.  Along the main road we passed a big goat that was tied to a tree and they all squealed and whimpered with (mostly) feigned fear as they walked by it,  but once it was far enough behind them they requested a picture with it.

Half-way through our walk they all looked tired but not one of them complained about it and they obliged my request for a picture in front of Dongoda Primary School and far-off mountains.   

Preschool B boys: Lubang, Alisu, Funny Boy, Obadiah and Joshua.

While the girls hold hands, pick flowers and sing songs the boys like to run ahead as far as they can before I yell for them to come back.   

They are also adept at spotting spiked caterpillars and have to be convinced not to touch such menacing insects.   

Big teak leaves make the best umbrellas during brief afternoon rain showers.  

There have been lots of fruit and vegetables to harvest and one day the boys begged to help Lawrence pick green beans in the garden.  Who can say no to that?

Anyway, life is good at Harvesters and as my time in Sudan is slowly coming to an end I hope to be more diligent about sharing things with you all here.  Thanks for checking in!   

July 8, 2011

Independence Day

Tomorrow, July 9, 2011, is the official independence day of the Republic of South Sudan.  Out of the ashes of war and destruction that have covered this land for decades a new nation will be born.  A nation of more than 200 disparate tribes spread across an area the size of Texas will be officially united.  The people here are eager and excited for this day, but the most pervasive sentiment seems to be relief.  It has been a mere six years since the CPA (Comprehensive Peace Agreement) was signed between North Sudan and South Sudan and while peace has been mostly sustained during that time there has still been much uncertainty about South Sudan's future. Tomorrow will, hopefully, bring real renewal to the people and land that have suffered so much for so long.







Today there is still fighting that began a month ago in Sudan along the border in Abyei (Unity State) and the Nuba Mountains (South Kordofan), which are the areas rich with oil.  While there is some concern that the fighting will migrate south most people think that it will be contained in those areas which are so valuable because of the oil.  Several hundred miles lie between us at Harvesters (at the very southern tip of Central Equatoria) and the current conflict so we are, fortunately, far removed from the violence.


This week I've been teaching my students their new national anthem.  They are teenagers who remember the war and the sound of Northern Antonov planes flying overhead, who have lived in squalid refugee camps after fleeing their homes, who have seen their fathers and mothers die, and many who have been orphaned because of it.  They sing loudly and vibrantly, as if each word is bursting forth from a spring filled with all of their hopes for their futures, as if each word can redeem the pain of their pasts.  Yet they don't know the meaning of most of their own anthem.  Abundance, harmony, justice, liberty, prosperity, reign, patriots and martyrs are words unknown to these teenagers, so we are learning.  We are learning the things they are proclaiming for their country with their own mouths, and perhaps if they understand the words they sing they will live them out.  For if they praise God with their lives, and their lives speak of harmony, justice and liberty, and they sing songs of freedom, and live with joy, then surely prosperity and peace will reign in this place?



On Monday I came across Benjamin Franklin's speech at the Constitutional Convention of 1787 and Foreign Policy's 2011 Failed States Index.  Sudan currently ranks third from the bottom, just above Somalia and Chad, on the list of the world's failed states.  I am reminded of statistics that have become far too familiar: half of the population doesn't have access to clean water, 85% of adults are illiterate, a 15-year old girl has a greater chance of dying in childbirth than finishing school.  




Sudan needs help, it needs billions of dollars in foreign aid and investments to create basic infrastructure and public services, it needs leaders who will seek peace and stability above wealth and power, people who will choose to build roads and construct plumbing systems before creating new cities in the shape of animals (true story, go ahead and click on that link), it needs a justice system that will prevent people from seeking their own revenge, it needs a generation of people willing and eager to work menial jobs to bring this country from its primitive roots into the 21st century, and on and on.

  

Yet I too subscribe to the words of Benjamin Franklin spoken 224 years ago, "that God governs in the affairs of men. And if a sparrow cannot fall to the ground without his notice, is it probable that an empire can rise without his aid? We have been assured... in the sacred writings that 'except the Lord build they labor in vain that build it.' I firmly believe this; and I also believe that without his concurring aid we shall succeed in this political building no better than the Builders of Babel: We shall be divided by our little partial local interests; our projects will be confounded, and we ourselves shall be become a reproach and a bye word down to future age. And what is worse, mankind may hereafter this unfortunate instance, despair of establishing Governments by Human Wisdom, and leave it to chance, war, and conquest."





So today, on the eve of the birth of the world's newest nation I pray a simple and conclusive prayer: that God, who removes kings and establishes kings and who brings nations into existence would continue to guide, protect and prosper the people of this land so that they may lead a tranquil and quiet life in all godliness and dignity.



And I sing with the people of the new Republic of South Sudan:

Oh God, we praise and glorify you for your grace on South Sudan,
Land of great abundance uphold us united in peace and harmony.
Oh motherland we rise raising flag with the guiding star,
And sing songs of freedom with joy!
For justice, liberty and prosperity shall forever more reign!
Oh great patriots, let us stand up in silence and respect,
Saluting our martyrs whose blood cemented our national foundation. 
We vow to protect our nation.
Oh God bless South Sudan!  



June 30, 2011

Belated Father's Day

This post is way overdue but for good reason:  I've been spending time with this guy...
my dad!

When I said goodbye to my parents at Dulles International Airport last November I never expected to spend Father's Day with my Dad in Sudan but it happened.  There's a lot to say about my Dad and today I'm struggling to put into words what his presence here means to me.  I'm struggling to describe the emotions I felt when I hugged his neck for the first time in more than six months while standing on African soil.  And I'm struggling to contain my tears when I look at these pictures of my father with the kids, my kids, at Harvesters.

"Baba Bill" with Aqui, Semama, and Isaiah


Baba Bill and Acqui

with Isaiah

My gratitude will never be enough but today it's all I have.  Thank you, Dad, thank you.

June 17, 2011

Follow the red dirt road: to Terekeka and back

A couple weeks ago I traveled to the Terekeka orphanage for a few days and have some pictures to share.  Lance (Dennis and Lilly's son) and his wife, Kim, run the orphanage in Terekeka and the purpose of me going was to attend a meeting in Juba with them.  The meeting never happened but it was a great trip for many reasons.  I got to see the Nile(!) and while I didn't step foot in it (one word - crocodiles) I did spend a serene morning sitting on its banks, we ate at an Indian / Chinese restaurant in Juba and eating something beside rice and beans was a great treat, and I met and loved on the 40ish kids who live at Terekeka.  Two of our P.7 girls, Nunas Mambu and Anna Gaba, came with us and it was Mambu's second trip to Terekeka and Anna's first trip out of town.  Seeing Sudan through their eyes was truly joyful and gave me a new perspective of this beautiful, war-torn country.

On Monday morning we stopped for a mid-morning snack of Rolex - fried egg and tomato wrapped inside a chappati (greasy tortilla).

tukkuls in the shadow of a rock mountain

a tailor in the Juba market

cucumbers and melons in Juba - where Lance and Kim buy their groceries every two weeks

Nunas Mambu and Anna Gaba enjoy some strawberry-pineapple ice cream.  I was excited for ice cream so I know they savored every bite. 

Women plant flowers in the road medians in Juba in preparation for South Sudan's upcoming independence day celebration on July 9.

On Wednesday we went back to Juba and took the girls on a tour of the Catholic University of Sudan.  Juba is a typical third-world city and is nothing to write home about.  Most people live in mud huts, there are few paved roads, there isn't a water system, trash litters the roads, etc. but the girls loved the hustle and bustle, the fancy professional women, and the abundant stores that sell (almost) anything imaginable.  As we toured the three-classroom Catholic University they were quietly excited to see first-hand the possibilities for their futures.

gas: 340 Sudanese Pounds (not shillings) for 68 litres (about $120 for 17.9 gallons)

a rainbow over Sudan

Women carry goods through African plains.  Where do you come from, where do you go?

huuuge puddles on the "driveway" to the Terekeka orphanage

Terekeka orphans play (and crawl through the dirt) on a lazy, hot afternoon.

cloudy sunrise over the Nile - majestic

a beautiful morning in Terekeka

typical path in Africa

people bathing and fishing in a marsh along the main road 

a man herds his cattle south toward Juba

kicking up dust on the way back to Juba

our taxi from Juba back home: 10 adults in a small family van

Mambu and Anna and I took the back seat.

stopped at a roadblock as workers searched for and disabled landmines

We spent about six hours traveling the 150 miles from Terekeka back home because the vast majority of the roads in South Sudan are made of dirt and riddled with bumps and holes.  Drivers speed along with little concern for the shocks on their cars or people walking on the side of the road and I spent much of the trip holding onto the seat in front of me and closing my eyes whenever we passed a pedestrian.  By the grace of God we made it safely back home and I'd never been more relieved to return to the little oasis that is Harvesters.